Book reviews

The best cookbooks to buy for last-minute Christmas presents

The best cookbooks to buy for last-minute Christmas presents

I intended to write this post about a month ago when most normal people do their Christmas shopping but hey, it’s suddenly December 22nd and only two shopping days to Christmas. There are however those who leave their shopping until the VERY last minute (I did most of mine at the weekend) and for you this guide may solve all your Christmas present dilemmas in one go.

The good news is that 2015 has been a bumper year for cookbooks so there should be a suitable title for everyone you know

For keen bakers

I hasten to say I’m not a baker which is maybe why the unorthodox but brilliant Honey & Co The Baking Book appeals, not least because its recipes work. I also like The Violet (I nearly wrote Violent) Bakery Cookbook by Claire Ptak. Chocolate croissant bread pudding anyone? Yup, I thought so.

For the adventurous cook

Mamushka
No need for any extra endorsement from me, this book has swept the board in almost all the 2015 book selections - and rightly. Its author, Olia Hercules, is as charming on the page as she is in person sharing family recipes (from the Ukraine) you almost certainly won’t have tried before. I’ve cooked about 4 or 5 dishes from it and all have been delicious.

Those who appreciate an encyclopaedic approach to food will love The Nordic Cookbook, the 768 page magnum opus from Magnus Nilsson of Faviken. It’s the Scandi equivalent of the Larousse Gastronomique - and frankly a bargain at £29.95 (or even less from you-know-who). Meatball obsessives will be in heaven.

If you follow Maunika Gowardhan’s mouthwatering instagram feed @cookinacurry you’ll know how good her food looks and sounds. Indian Kitchen: the secrets of Indian Home Cooking tells you exactly how to make it. Ideal for curry fanatics

And if you’ve always wanted to get your head round bibimbap, kimchi and other Korean specialities Jordan Bourke and Rejina Pyo’s Our Korean Kitchen will get you off to a cracking start.

For Hibernophiles
At least that’s the term for someone who love Ireland and all things Irish according to Wikipedia. If you know someone who falls into that category buy them Trish Deseine’s Home, a beautifully produced book that combines luscious photography with lyrical writing and some lovely recipes including this one for baked apple with porter cake crumbs and whisky custard

For the cash-strapped (or anyone who has been cleaned out by a visit to the dentist recently. *Speaks from bitter experience*.)

The Cornershop Cookbook probably wins the prize for the most delightfully left-field book of the year though I suspect not everyone has such generously stocked local shops as the authors. Good for an ambitious student cook. And given chicken is also not that expensive one of your loved ones (can't believe I'm using that term) may appreciate a copy of either A Bird in the Hand from Sunday Telegraph Cookery writer Diana Henry or Catherine Phipps Chicken: I’d say Phipps for the more cerebral cook who likes to get her/his head around techniques like making chicken brittle and Henry for the friend or family member who wants more colourful inspiration (the photography, as always with her books, is as inviting as the text).

For celebrity chef groupies
As ever there’s a book from all the big names this Christmas, from which I’d pick out four

Nopi
Even someone who has all Ottolenghi’s other books will want this one written with his head chef Ramael Scully. It looks utterly beautiful with its gleaming gold page edges too.

Simply Nigella
Nigella has come under fire for some of the recipes in her new TV series but who can complain about chicken traybake with bitter orange and fennel or tamarind-marinated bavette? A book to read as well as to cook from - Nigella on vintage form

More health-conscious friends may appreciate Gizzi Erskine’s Gizzi’s Healthy Appetite (loads of lovely recipes in this one) and Jamie Oliver's Jamie’s Everyday Super Food both written by chefs who actually enjoy their food and have retained a sense of balance about what constitutes healthy eating. (Even the clean eating brigade couldn’t complain about Jamie’s 100 calorie snack bowls. Though they probably will.)

If you’ve a chef-obsessed friend they’ll also love Carrie Solomon and Adrian Moore’s Inside Chefs’ Fridges, a compulsive read I suspect many will keep in the bathroom, infuriating family members by locking themselves in and pouring over it for hours. (You won’t be surprised Fergus Henderson has Fernet Branca in his. Fridge, not bathroom, obviously. Though possibly that too ...)

For cooks who like to read in bed

Five Quarters by Rachel Roddy
My other favourite book this year from one of the best young writers around. Very much in the Elizabeth David/Jane Grigson mould, you don't even need to cook from it to be able to taste the food and ingredients of her adopted Rome

And finally food geeks (and infographic fans) will love Laura Rowe’s Taste which gets over basic food science and culinary tips in a jazzy, snazzy way. A fun book for older, food-conscious teens.

There were many other good books published this year (Richard Turner’s Hog and Claire Thompson’s Five O’Clock Apron on feeding small kids among them) but if I don’t stop now you’ll never get to the shops in time, will you?

And let’s hope someone buys one of these for you.

Disclosure: most of these books were sent to me as review copies.

Book review: Leon Fast Vegetarian

Book review: Leon Fast Vegetarian

Having eaten Jane Baxter’s food on a number of occasions I was really looking forward to the publication of Leon Fast Vegetarian, the book she’s just written with Leon founder Henry Dimbleby, one of a series of books that has been published by the Leon chain.

Jane used to work at the Riverford Kitchen in Devon and I’ve frequently dipped in to the two books she’s written for them, The Riverford Farm Cook Book and Everyday and Sunday: recipes from Riverford Farm. Although she’s a chef she’s a really great home cook with an intuitive feel for how ingredients work together.

This is a slightly bigger book, divided by types of meal (breakfast & brunch, pasta, grains & pulses, rice & curry ...) rather than ingredients or seasons. As well as Jane’s own recipes there are contributions from co-author Henry Dimbleby and some nice guest recipes from family and friends, Henry’s mum Josceline Dimbleby and restaurant critic Giles Coren among them. Plenty would be suitable for kids - it’s very much a family cookbook.

There were a lot of recipes I wanted to make from the book but settled on three:

The first, as I was somewhat obsessed with a deep fried cauliflower I’d had in Paris, was a whole roast cauliflower with a caper and golden raisin dressing though not being able to find golden raisins I used ordinary ones instead. The taste was great (it also involved lashings of butter and smoked paprika) but the cauliflower a little undercooked even after giving it extra time. I blame the Aga but might possibly think of blanching it first another time to get it cooked right through (I reckon they did that in Paris). It makes a fantastic centrepiece for the table - I can imagine it with roast pork if you’re not a veggie.

The next was a spinach, squash and blue cheese bake because I had some Stilton and double cream to use up. All it needed in addition was some butternut squash and spinach (although I reckon I could have substituted chard), some fresh sage (I used dried) and some walnuts for which I substituted pistachios. A really good dish with a lovely balance of flavours though for four rather than the suggested 4-6 unless there were several other dishes on the table. Cooking it at a low temperature to set the custard gave it an indulgently smooth silky texture.

The third recipe - and an absolute triumph which I’ll definitely make again - was a Little Gem and egg salad which had the best vegetarian substitute for a caesar dressing I’ve ever tasted. Again I had to make a substitution. Having neither pernod or anisette I used a tsp of fennel seeds crushed with about 2/3 of a teaspoon of Maldon salt. I added it cautiously and found just over half that amount was enough to get the aniseed flavour I imagine Jane was looking for. The dressing also contains hummus, Dijon mustard and soy sauce among other ingredients. Goodness knows how she came up with that combination but it’s an absolute winner. You could, she suggests add some croutons to the salad too.

Other recipes I’ve earmarked to try include fennel, radish and broad bean salad, orecchiette with peas and spinach, Puglian bean purée (Jane spends a lot of time in Italy), green bean and cashew curry and stir-fried spiced spring greens. I also love ‘the Snickety Corner’ - a quirky line-up of fridge snacks and there’s a great selection of sides. Some nice desserts too though they aren’t the main point of the book. I definitely fancy the parsnip, cashew and coconut cake and you can find Jane's rhubarb and strawberry crumble sundae here.

The one drawback of the book is that while the recipes are simple, justifying the title Fast Vegetarian, the sourcing of the ingredients isn’t necessarily as straightforward. Even living in a city and with a relatively well-stocked storecupboard there were ingredients I found hard to track down. A garden - or even a couple of herb boxes - would certainly help and are encouraged at the start of the book.

And while there are helpful tips at the bottom of each recipe and a very useful ‘Happy Families' section which tells you how you can substitute one vegetable for another you need a bit of experience to get the best out of the book.

That said the recipes I tried were bold, delicious and inspiring. I’ll definitely be dipping into them again.

Buy Leon Fast Vegetarian if:

* you’re a vegetarian, obviously, but even if you aren’t and want to introduce more vegetarian food into your diet

* you get a veg box and need inspiration as to what to do with it, though Jane’s other books (see above) would also help

* you’re a keen cook with a well-stocked storecupboard

* you have reasonably adventurous kids - or kids you want to eat more vegetables.

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